This was my first timing making the Calvin Wrap Dress by True Bias and I understand why it’s a summertime favourite!
Before we go into the pattern, can we just take a moment to appreciate this beautiful rayon fabric designed by Rachel Parker for Dashwood Studio. The gentle waves and overlapping colours are just gorgeous!
Ok so I was technically a size 14 on the pack measurements but decided to size down based on the finished garment size, I was really pleased I did that. It recommended 2.9m to cut a size 12 but I’m always up for a challenge to waste as little fabric as possible so here I went. I had been warned there was a lot of binding, but instead of placing the pattern pieces right in the middle of fabric I pulled out my trusty Ogden Cami attern pieces and managed to work the bias pieces in a way for me to cut out a top as well, job done!
When it comes to stay stitching I much prefer to use forming tape (fusible interfacing strips with a line of stitching through the middle). It’s so easy to iron onto fabrics and it really stabilises fabrics cut on the bias. The main pieces came together really nicely and the instructions were really nice and clear (although if you overlock your seams I’d recommend you do the centre back seams before sewing them together - much easier). Then it was just a case of making and attaching the binding. I like to use clips when working with delicate fabrics like this so that it doesn’t leave holes (also great if you’re a bit clumsy like me, we’ve all had that moment of searching the floor for the dropped pin).
I was recommended starch to help with the binding and it was the best advice! I cut the pieces out, sprayed on the starch and then made up the bias using my bias tape makers. The fabric was still soft but stiff enough to make it so much easier to work with.
When it came to the straps I think I underestimated how fiddly it would be to finish the tiny edges (as there’s no fabric for your feeding to catch) so need to work on that in the future but luckily those stitches are all hidden away.
The length is spot on and the button hole on the side is genius, I might raise it up a bit in future makes but that’s possibly a personal preference. Then in order for me to get a nice finish on my hem I pressed well before sewing and it paid off - so crisp!
Overall verdict:
Beautiful dress that is great on a hot summer’s day and fairly quick/easy to make once the bias binding is prepped. The modesty popper I think is needed when working with a drapey fabric as it slides about a bit as you wear it.
Pros
The length, the ease and the buttonhole!
Cons
The darts aren’t quite in the right place for me so could be worth tacking before you stitch fully if you’re not making a toile, to make sure the fit is right for you.
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*Nic was given the fabric, Calvin Wrap Dress Pattern and thread in exchange for writing this blog post