Sewing with Corduroy

Now that autumn has arrived my mind has turned to all things autumnal - cosy jumpers, mugs of hot chocolate, pumpkins, and of course, corduroy. There's something about corduroy that makes it the perfect fabric for the season.

Corduroy is a versatile, durable, and warm fabric. It is is used for garments, upholstery and accessories like bags. There are different types of corduroy fabrics, each is suited to different types of projects.

Corduroy is easily recognised by its unique raised ridges, known as wales. These wales are created through a specific weaving technique that give the fabric a pile. The wales run vertically, parallel to the fabric’s selvedge. The number of wales per inch play a key role in determining the fabric's thickness and its ideal use. A lower number of wales per inch indicates a thicker, more rugged corduroy, while a higher number of wales per inch is a finer fabric.

Corduroy comes in various types, each with its own unique texture and feel. You might be familiar with terms like jumbo cord, stretch corduroy, needlecord, or babycord. Jumbo cord, as its name suggests, is the thickest, featuring anywhere from 3 to 10 ridges (or "wales") per inch. Standard corduroy typically has 10 to 14 wales per inch, while finer varieties like needlecord, babycord, and pincord have between 14 and 22 wales per inch. When choosing corduroy for a specific project, it's essential to consider the number of wales per inch, as this affects the fabric's texture and properties.

Corduroy is traditionally made from cotton, but it can also be made from polyester, viscose and blends of these fibres. Some corduroy fabrics also contain elastane which gives the fabric some stretch, these are described as stretch corduroys.  

Tips for sewing with corduroy

Corduroy is a fantastic, stable fabric that's relatively easy to sew with, but there are a few key things to keep in mind when working with it.

Prewash - First and foremost, always pre-wash your corduroy before starting your project. Be sure to fully unfold the fabric before placing it in the washing machine. Once the cycle is finished, remove the fabric promptly to minimise creasing.

Ironing - When working with corduroy, it’s essential to handle the fabric carefully to preserve its texture and appearance. One key tip is to avoid flattening the pile when ironing. To do this, place a folded towel on your ironing board, and with the right side of the corduroy facing the towel, iron on the wrong side of the fabric using medium heat, plenty of steam and don't press down too hard with the iron. Always test a small section first before ironing the entire piece to ensure the iron settings you are using won't damage the pile.

Corduroy is directional - Corduroy has a distinctive nap, meaning the fabric has a direction. When you run your hand over corduroy parallel to the selvedge, it will feel smoother in one direction and rougher in the other. There's no "correct" way for the nap to go - it's entirely a matter of personal preference. However, once you decide which direction you prefer, make sure all your pattern pieces are cut in that same direction. For example, ensure that the top of all your skirt pieces point upward. If a piece is cut in the opposite direction, it will catch the light differently and appear a different shade, affecting the overall look of your finished garment.

When sewing, be sure to stitch your seams in the direction of the nap for a smoother finish.

Pay attention to the alignment of the wales when cutting out and sewing - It’s also a good idea to cut your pattern pieces on a single layer of fabric, paying close attention to the alignment of the wales (the vertical ridges on corduroy). Make sure they’re straight when cutting and that your seams are sewn in a straight line as well.

Use plenty of pins and a walking foot - To prevent the fabric from shifting, use plenty of pins or consider basting your pieces before sewing. A walking foot can also be incredibly helpful, as it keeps the layers of fabric from slipping as you sew.

Care - Finally, once your garment is finished, wash it inside out using the same washing machine settings that you used to pre-wash the fabric. This will help maintain its texture and appearance over time.